Farm to Table Summer
It’s all about balance baby: have your organic spinach with a side of menthol cigs. Farm to table is the new wave, duh!
This article is part of The G Spot, a weekly segment where criticista Gordistotle gives insight into the pop culture happenings of now through opinions or anecdotes on his life living in Toronto.
Graphic by Sierra Madison
BRAT Summer is dead. *rings gong* Make way for farm to table summer. The latest craze that’s sweeping the nation, the timeline, and your wallet. The internet is more obsessed with food than ever, from tradwives to gym bros to the girl from high school who randomly started a wellness blog. Everyone and their mom can’t stop talking about their food. Between mukbangs, what I eat in a day, and 10,000 calorie challenges, farm to table has sprung up amongst the crop for a multitude of reasons: its health benefits, its ability to flex one’s own financial and self-discipline, as well as its potential to go viral.
What does farm to table encompass?
What doesn’t it encompass? It’s a way of life. However, the title is pretty self-explanatory. We’re eating farm-to-table. The grocery store is so drab, it’s sterile. Shake up your routine a bit, make an event of going to the farmers’ market. Get your food directly from the source, skip over all the supply chain nonsense, so harmful for the environment! The Spruce Eats provides the following definition: "the food on the table came directly from a specific farm, without going through a store, market, or distributor along the way “
Farm to table highlights the importance of knowing where your food is coming from, eliminating waste, and cutting down on transportation emissions. It’s not about eliminating processed foods entirely, this isn’t a diet.
Unless you want it to be. Just kidding.
How can I get started with farm to table summer, it’s so daunting!
Toronto has revolving farmers markets that pop up all throughout the city weekly. The list is far too exhaustive for me to write down.
Luckily BlogTO already did it for me and composed a comprehensive list here.
We put together an interactive Google map for you to find your local farmers’ market
Since I’m in the West End (not that west though, of course) my markets of choice are Bloor-Borden, located at 300 Bloor Street W, and the Trinity Bellwoods Market, located at, well, Trinity Bellwoods (duh).
But what are the benefits?
Is it even worth the extra penny?
I know, It’s hard out here, the wages are not waging. When rent for a one-bedroom is more than half a month's earnings, it’s time to start churning our own butter - Nara Smith might actually be on to something. It’s not like our TheRealReal check-out cart is going to nourish our bodies, it’s time we put our money where our mouths are. Literally.
Farm to table is en vogue, you’ve bought into more expensive trends, haven’t you? Sell the Sweat tour tickets, you know it’s Charli and Troye right? He’s not just the opener… It isn’t just a lifestyle, it’s an aesthetic.
Running into someone at the farmers market? “Oh I’m just picking up my groceries” as you walk away with a confident grin.
Being spotted in a full linen outfit accessorized with a net shopping bag full of produce? Chic. Ontario-grown strawberries add a lovely pop of color to any outfit.
Since I’ve only recently dove into the world of farm to table, I had to consult some of my sources. I have many a reach within the farm to table community, one of my best friends, Anna Matthews, happens to be working on a farm in British Columbia this summer. I couldn’t think of anyone better to contact to get some insights on the producer side of farm to table and what it means to her.
GORDISTOTLE: So why did you choose to work on a farm anyway-
ANNA MATTHEWS: Well-
G: Was it because of farm to table?
AM: The concept of farm to table was always something that I was drawn to when eating at restaurants in Toronto. She explains using her hands, which were covered in dirt.
G: Oh my god! Your hands!
AM: I know, it only starts to come off after a couple of days of not working, I swear I wash my hands. I was out to a restaurant with my Mom while she was visiting me and she slapped my hands when I put them on the table… This is just what I’m used to - everyone I work with has hands that look like this.
G: I didn’t mean to sidetrack you, sorry it just really threw me off guard, continue.
AM: No, I get it. Anyway, I chose to work on a farm to get a better sense of how our food is grown and where it comes from. Obviously, not all food is grown like where I work, but I wanted to get a sense of what organic farming meant.
The dirty hands in question
G: You’re majoring in nutrition right?
AM: Exactly, within my program, we didn’t really get into farm to table and sustainable food chains which is why I really wanted to have this experience. Only one or two courses really touched on food distribution, that’s really what piqued my curiosity. I found it interesting and it made me want to explore the topic further. Find out where the roots of our food is from. The. Roots.
G: Sorry don’t laugh, I just can’t get over your fingers… like wow this girl really does work on a farm.
AM: Oh my god.
G: Do you think that farm to table is just a trend?
AM: Yes… honestly… I do. To be quite honest, it’s more of a catchphrase. Restaurants, whether it’s genuine or not, not saying it’s bad intentions or anything, it’s honestly like having an organic label on your product. That’s a trend. I don’t think people even really grasp what farm to table means.
G: Honestly, even I don’t. I’m taking liberties with it.
AM: I think the root of what farm to table means is restaurant curators going to the farmers market and taking it based on what they have in mind for their recipes. I’m reading a book right now and the author’s theory is more so to come into it with a sustainable lens, pulling up to the farmers market and asking the farmers what they can do with all the available food so there’s no waste. Work with the ecosystem.
G: I love that.
AM: I think people love the farm to table catchphrase, but what if that doesn’t work with the farmer? You’re just going to go to the supermarket and get everything you couldn’t get. You know?
G: How do you think farm to table plays into social media - think Nara Smith?
AM: I don’t know who that is.
I pursed my lips and made my best impression.
G: The one girl who’s like I’m gonna make this from scratch.
AM: Ooooh, yes yes yes I know her.
G: As someone working on a farm, how do you feel about everyone being so obsessed with food these days?
AM: Honestly, that? I’m for it. I love how people are all up in it. The one thing is that there’s so much focus on the picturesque, you know the dirtiest carrots are the best because the dirt keeps all the nutrients in.
G: So essentially pick the ugliest looking carrot for the best flavor?
AM: Exactly!
G: Let’s be real, is farm to table just an excuse for orthorexia?
AM: What is that?
G: It’s kinda like anorexia but you don’t eat ice cream as your one meal a day, it’s more like, just eating healthy and stuff.
AM: Right, right. I do have a bit of a hot take. Honestly, since working on the farm, when you’re consuming this much fresh produce, your thoughts on that stuff really go out the window.
G: Really?
AM: You’re eating so clean, you just really don’t think about it. You feel so good, you know what you’re putting in your body is so good. I mean except when I’m drinking.
G: It’s all about balance right? I eat so good, alright, I’ll have a drink.
AM: Yeah, for sure, at the farm we all go to the bar after work.
G: Is it organic beer?
AM: I don’t know, but it’s definitely very local.
G: Even the beer you drink is farm to table!
AM: Exactly, exactly.
G: Do you feel like when you move back to Toronto you’ll continue your farm to table lifestyle?
AM: No.
G: No…?
AM: Unfortunately, I genuinely do think it’ll be a culture shock - I’ve been eating the best quality food in my life, I have free access to organic vegetables. Now I’m going back to paying $20 for a bag of organic spinach? That’s going to shake my entire reality.
G: It’s hard to afford to eat farm to table.
AM: So I think we should all work on farms.
G: I think that’s where I’m going to end it. We should all work on farms. Farm. To. Table. Summer.
Some inspiration for you if you ultimately do decide to work on a farm
Now that we’ve looked at it from the producer side, how does it work for the consumer? I got you covered--- like I said, I have connections in the farm to table community. See, my roommate, Mila Radojevic, is a bit of an aficionado in the field. I can vouch for her. I've used her membership at countless organic grocers across the city (shhh, don’t tell her).
Farm to table isn’t just a trend, it’s her lifestyle. In an impromptu interview at Trinity Bellwoods, I got down to the bottom of what a farm to table summer means for the consumer.
G: What does farm to table summer mean to you?
MILA RADOJEVIC: To me, farm to table summer is my entire life - I’ve always bought my groceries European style, it’s an activity. I’ll go almost every day, even just to buy one or two things, I’m not afraid to admit that. After pausing to take a bite from her sustainably fished tuna salad she continues. I have an array of stores I go to all across the city, a butcher, a fishmonger, produce stores. I usually go to the produce store multiple times a week.
G: All organic?
MR: All organic baby. Fair-trade. I always prioritize local, especially in the summer. Why would I be eating imported food in the summer?
G: Farm to table.
MR: Exactly, farm to table, we live in Canada, we have farms. I don’t have time for Driscolls. Breaking for yet another bite of the salad, I’ll be honest, I wanted a bite. Farm Boy is my go-to for big grocery hauls, honestly, they have good deals, they haven’t done us too dirty with inflation.
G: A chicken thigh is $20, but that’s neither here nor there.
MR: Listen, they still have the peanut butter for $3.99, they’re not gonna tell you about that! It’s the Trader Joe’s of Canada.
G: It started in Ottawa you know.
MR: Shout out.
G: Why do you shop like this?
MR: I like my food to be fresh, local. I find a lot of enjoyment in food and cooking. It’s an excuse to get out of the house, who knows what I can find today? Sometimes it’s an issue, I’ll buy random things that I don't even need. I’ll go in - I won’t even need it - and oh my god, those heirloom tomatoes look beautiful, and suddenly I’m walking out with $15 of tomatoes, you know what I mean?
G: How do you afford to shop like this?
MR: Oh my god… I don’t. I just don’t look at my banking statements. Too real, we had to pause for a bit to laugh. It’s the hedonism, if there’s one thing I am, it’s a hedonist.
G: It’s also the discipline though, you could be shopping at FreshCo like the plebeians however you make it your mission statement to go to the farmers market and buy - the most expensive piece of food you could ever find.
MR: It’s like a way I show love to myself - it’s a balance. I’m saving money technically, I have these yummy groceries at home, I don’t need to go out.
G: Would you say this trend is gonna last?
MR: I’ve been on this before it was a trend-
G: As you are with most things.
MR: This is my lifestyle, I’m Serbian. I was raised to shop and eat like this, when I go home this is just how people live.
G: Back in the old country.
MR: I was privileged to eat all organic growing up, my Mom prioritized all organic food. Not almond mom vibes, I am Eastern-European, lots of cheese and meat. Good quality food, always.
G: Always.
MR: It’s just something that I don’t like to skimp out on because it’s something I enjoy.
G: What would your advice be for people who want to buy into the trend?
MR: Honestly, it’s a fun activity, the farmers’ market is once a week, make an outing of it. Buy one thing to start and let that excite you for the day.
G: Get the rush of buying a chicken thigh for $15, fully organic, fair trade, farm to table, chicken thigh.
MR: Your life will be changed forever. Therapy is $200 a session, my farmers’ market berries are $9 a pint. You take your pick.
G: There are ways to do farm to table smart, you just need to prioritize what’s important to you.
MR: Exactly, they have $3 Kale, and that’s the exact same as the grocery store. Do a little bit of both. Sometimes I’ll buy my entire Depop cart and I’m eating canned fish for the week.
G: Sustainably fished and organic, of course.
MR: Of course.
G: Any final thoughts?
MR: I recommend it, if something as simple as food can bring joy to your life, I think that’s awesome. Shopping local, to me, just tastes so much better.
G: Support the local economy.
MR: Support the local economy! It’s beneficial in so many ways, it’s nice to take care of yourself through food.
Life is all about balance, in the wake of Brat Summer’s ending (for those who are in the know at least), restoring the balance in our lives is crucial as fall inevitably rolls around. Farm to table is a way of life, it's about prioritizing your gut health but staying out until the sun rises. It’s about having a cigarette while drinking your natural wine. No sulfites here baby, well not from the wine at least.
The world’s hyper-fixation on food is at an all-time high, farm to table summer invites a healthier relationship to it. Caring about food in a way that makes shopping fun, meals more enjoyable, and cutting down on waste. Besides, it’s not like any of us will ever be able to buy property.
What’s the point of saving with no end in sight? I’m going to buy $32 artisanal cheese from a dairy farmer based in Paris, Ontario, and I’m going to enjoy every second of it.